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Vienna style wall clock - 30/07/2007

Recently a customer living near Stratford-on-Avon was looking for a Vienna style wall clock. One of the range by Comitti of London appealed but he was unable to find the model he wanted in the shops he contacted. Web enquiries did not produce a response until he found our site.

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How To Set Up A Clock

The following downloadable Setting Notes are designed to be of assistance to anyone owning an antique clock but who has little knowledge of how to protect it, set it up or look after it.


It is not possible to cover every example of clock made over several hundred years in the space available but you will find most of the clocks you are likely to encounter. Select a clock type similar to your own and follow the basic principles.


Terms used should be understood easily, the following will help:


It is important that strong screws hang wall clocks. Unlike a picture, clocks are wound, regulated, doors open, every week, which increases the risk of a screw giving way. The fixing should be a sturdy screw relative to the weight of the clock and put into the wall at a downward angle. If a clock is not too heavy a large masonry nail driven in at a downward angle will suffice.


Longcase clocks are best screwed to the wall for safety. Clocks that stand on feet must be firm, not rocking about.


When going away for longer than your clock will run, it is best to stop it. If the clock stops by itself damage to the escapement may result. Do not silence your clock by not winding the striking part as this is likely to damage your clock. Advice for silencing the clock should come from the shop where your clock was purchased or a qualified horologist.


The method of adjusting the tick of the clock is often by bending the crutch. This should be done carefully and sensibly. Do not use as a lever against the escapement as it could easily damage the pivots or escapement. The best method is to place the first and second finger spaced apart behind the opposite side of the crutch arm and push in the middle with the thumb. A slight bend makes a lot of difference to the tick.


Regulation is on a trial and error basis. Most clocks can be made to keep time to a minute or so a week, over a period of time, Try a small adjustment first to see what result is achieved. Do not expect quartz accuracy from an antique clock as it is not only unfair usually unnecessary as well.



Turning Your Clocks Forward

Spring forward, fall back, setting your clocks to time.

Twice a year we have to change our clocks. Which way to move the time is to remember, "spring forward, fall back".

 

There are many hundreds of different types of mechanical clock. These notes advise about the most common types of clock. Please email us for specific advice if you are unsure. Our free downloadable files, above, may also help.


If your clock only tells the time you have little to worry about. A timepiece or, time only, clock will almost always have only one hole where you wind it up. These clocks will not be harmed whichever way you turn the hands. It is important you move only the longer minute hand forward one hour in the spring and back one hour at the end of October.


A striking clock will most often have two winding holes and a quarter chime clock will have three winding holes. In the spring move the longer minute hand forward allowing the clock to strike the quarter and half-hours. If you feel strong resistance at any point back up the hand about two minutes and let the clock strike before moving forward again.


When the clocks go back in October you have to be much more careful if your clock strikes or chimes. French carriage clocks in particular are very easily damaged and repairs are expensive. In November we have quite a few damaged clocks for repair.


If your clock has a pendulum the safest way to turn the clock back is to stop your clock for one hour. If your clock is large open the door and grasp the pendulum to stop it. One hour later move the pendulum to one side and let go. If your clock is smaller just tilt the clock forward until the sticking stops then gently allow the clock to be upright again. One hour later tilt the clock to one side and back to upright. The clock will start ticking again.


If your clock has a balance wheel, as in a carriage clock you will have to move the hands gently forward eleven hours, allowing the clock to strike each hour, half hour and quarter hour if that is what it is supposed to do. This may seem tedious to some people but it is worth the time to avoid expensive damage to your clock.

 This is also a good time to clean the glass and give the case a little polish.

 

 

English Wall Clocks and Bracket Clocks

 

These clocks take the form of either wall clocks or bracket clocks. Pendulums should be removed or secured before moving the clock.

 

SETTING UP.  The pendulums of these clocks take two forms, either detachable or not, depending on what type of escapement is used. Anchor and dead-beat escapements are detachable pendulums and verge escapement pendulums are not normally. For bracket clocks with a back mounted bell it may be necessary to undo the bell nut and take off the bell itself. Bracket clocks often have some form of pendulum clamp to hold the pendulum whilst being moved. To remove a detachable pendulum lift up the pendulum and top suspension spring block and bring back clear of the back cock and crutch pin. To replace the pendulum reverse this procedure but ensure the brass suspension block pin sits into the notch on the top of the back cock and also that the crutch pin is inside the slot of the pendulum rod. For wall clocks put the pendulum on after the clock is hanging on the wall. For attached pendulums it is simply moved to one side and hooked up into the side hook or unhooked to release. If the hook is missing the pendulum should be padded inside the case to stop it moving. Do not attempt to remove the pendulum in any way. After hanging or releasing the pendulum it is necessary to check the "tick". This must be even in order that the clock continues to function. Swing the pendulum gently and listen - if you are not sure whether it is even or not try raising one side of the case and listen to see what that sounds like. On a wall clock move it out of vertical. If the "tick" is uneven the crutch arm has to be bent. Sometimes there is an adjustable crutch with two screws that when turned move the crutch position side to side. Decide which way the crutch arm is to be bent by making the "tick" correct by lifting up one side of the case, or with a wall clock pivoting on the hanging screw. If the clock is raised up on the right (looking from the front) bend the crutch slightly to the right (looking from the back). The pendulum rod itself is bent in the case of fixed pendulums with verge escapements. If the clock is raised up on the left, bend the crutch to the left. Trial and error will soon correct the clock. With an adjustable crutch the arm need not be bent as the same effect is achieved by rotating the knurled brass nut carrying the crutch pin one way or the other. Wall clocks, after they are in beat in the vertical position, often have securing plates which can be screwed through to stop the clock moving when winding. A double sided sticky pad pressed on the wall behind a wall clock stops it moving when you wind it.

 

WINDING. Wind the clock once a week in a clockwise direction. If the clock is a striking clock wind both sides. Wind until the key comes to a definite stop which after seven days will be 28 half turns on each square or more if the clock has run slightly longer. This applies only to fusee clocks which the vast majority of antique English clocks are. For quarter chiming bracket clocks all three squares will require winding. Ensure your key fits the square properly, it must fit onto the square enough and have little if any slack. If the key is beginning to wear round then replace it as it may damage the clock squares. Striking clocks must be wound on both sides even if the clock is not wanted to strike, failure to wind the striking spring may stop the clock and can cause damage. Some bracket clocks are fitted with strike/silent devices.

 

HANDSETTING.  To set the hands to time always move the minute hand ONLY. On a timepiece clock (one which does not strike or chime) the minute hand can be moved forwards or backwards to reach the correct time. On striking clocks which sound the hours only, the minute hand can be moved forwards slowly to each hour allowing the clock to complete its striking each time before moving on. For minor adjustments in a backward direction the minute hand should only be moved between the figures 40 - 1 minute. To go back past the 60 may well damage the movement. On quarter chiming clocks sounding each quarter, the minute hand can be moved forwards slowly to each quarter allowing the clock to complete its chime each time before moving on. For minor adjustments in a backwards direction the minute hand can only be moved safely between the figures 7 - 1 minute, 22 - 16, 37 - 31 or 52 - 46 minutes. If the clock has a strike/silent this can be switched to silent in which case there is no need to pause at the quarter hour or hours.

 

STRIKE CORRECTION.  English clocks are normally on a rack striking principal and do not get out of sequences. The only exception is if the hour hand is moved. This is normally friction tight and so can be moved to line up with the appropriate hour struck.

 

DATE SETTING.  To set a date on an English bracket clock the first thing is to make sure that the time is in the right 12 hour sequence so that the date is changing during the night and not around midday. Two types of date mechanisms are used, one shows the date on a hand and the other in an aperture. For the hand type simply move the hand onto the correct date. The type which shows in an aperture has engraved figures on a large ring with inside teeth. This ring must be located from the back of the dial, at the front of the movement and turned manually with the finger until the correct date is reached. All the dates are marked up to 31 days and so have to be corrected fairly often so you should get to know your clock and will find it easy to change the date when you know how.

 

REGULATION.  Most English clocks only have regulation on the pendulum itself although a few have separate regulation dials (called rise and fall). With regulation dials simply move the hand slightly towards fast or slow, usually left (anti clockwise) for slow and right for fast. Look at the drawings to determine what type of pendulum bob you have. For fixed pendulums with verge escapements turn the bob itself to the right (clockwise) to go fast or left (anti clockwise) to go slow. If a pendulum bob has a bottom nut turn the nut to the right (clockwise) to go fast or left (anti clockwise) to go slow. Occasionally the pendulum sticks in the rod and so when the nut is turned to the left the bob stays where it is, so ensure that the bob is still sitting on the top of the nut, if not gently pull the bob down back onto the nut. With a pendulum having the nut on top of the bob, look down onto the nut and turn to the right (clockwise) to go fast or left (anti clockwise) to go slow.

 

OTHER TYPES. English clocks have many variations so if your clock has something different about it which is not dealt with here email us or contact a qualified horologist.

 

French Strike

 

SETTING UP. Whenever the clock is moved the pendulum should always be taken out. To do this first, determine from the pictures which type of suspension your clock has - either spring or silk. If the movement strikes on a gong this remains in position but if the clock strikes on a bell, first remove the bell nut and then the bell. For suspension spring clocks lift the pendulum hook off the bottom of the suspension spring, bring back clear of the crutch and manoeuvre around the hammer and bell stand or gong. Adjust and replace the pendulum is a reversal of this procedure. For silk suspension clocks, lift up the pendulum and unhook from the silk, then slide the wire of the rod through the small gap in the crutch fork. Manoeuvre pendulum around the hammer and bell stand or gong. To replace the pendulum reverse the procedure, but after hooking the pendulum onto the silk do not pull down as it may unravel the silk and upset the regulation. Also, ensure that the block is correctly situated in the crutch fork. Then next step is to check the "tick". This must be even in order that the clock continues to function. Swing the pendulum gently and listen - if you are not sure whether it is even or not, try raising one side of the case and listen to see what that sounds like. If the tick is uneven there are two ways of correction. Again determine what type of suspension spring you have. For spring suspensions it may be on a friction basis and so move the pendulum right to one side and release. Leave it to settle down for about half a minute and then listen again as it may have corrected itself. Otherwise use the silk suspension method. One way for both silk and spring suspensions is to loosen the two case screws set in the back ring and then slowly turn the front bezel and dial one way or the other until the tick is correct, then tighten up the two screws again. This system however, is only suitable for slight adjustment. The other method is to actually bend the crutch arm. First decide which way it is to be bent by making the tick correct by lifting up one side of the case until it sounds even. If the clock is raised up on the right (looking from the front) bend the crutch minutely to the right (looking from the back). If the clock is raised up on the left bend the crutch arm to the left. Then try the reaction and decide if the bend was too much, not sufficient or now correct. If there is a problem getting the pendulum to continue to swing, check it is not fouling the case, bell or gong in any way. Replace the bell and bell nut and gently lift up the hammer and release to check the sound. If the bell sounds flat, the hammer is too close, if it does not sound the hammer is not near enough. To correct this first turn the bell round into another position in case the central hole is eccentric. Failing this correcting the sound, the hammer arm must be gently bent one way or the other until the sound is correct.

 

WINDING. Wind the clock once a week in a clockwise direction. If the clock is a striking clock wind both sides. Wind until the resistance is obviously too strong to safely continue. Ensure your key fits the square properly.

 

HANDSETTING. To set the hands to time always move the minute hand only. Move the minute hand forwards slowly to each half hour and allow the clock to complete its striking before moving onto the correct time. For minor adjustments in a backwards direction, the minute hand should only be moved between the figures of 15 - 1 minute or 45 - 31 minutes. To go back past the 60 or 30 divisions may well damage the movement and at other times may put the strike out of sequence.

 

STRIKE CORRECTION. The striking sequence of French clocks can get out of step with the hands for three reasons (Other than a faulty movement). Mainspring run down and not wound, incorrect hand setting or catching the hour hand when setting to time. First determine if your movement is rack striking or locking plate striking. A locking plate strike has a wheel on the back with unevenly divided notches on its circumference. A rack strike does not have this wheel at all. For a rack strike the only correction is by moving the hour hand, which is friction tight, gently to the correct hour lining up to the strike sounded. For locking plate movements lift and release the locking lever which rests on the locking plate outer edge to allow the strike to sound. Repeat this operation until the striking catches up to the time of the hands, then continue to set the hands to the correct time in the normal manner.

 

REGULATION. For spring suspensions major adjustments can be made on the pendulum after removing it. Loosen the screw in the side of the bob, if present, turn the central nut to the right - clockwise to make the clock gain or to the left to make it lose. Then re-tighten the screw. Some do not have a rating nut, loosen the screw and slide the bob up the rod to make it gain or down to make it lose and re-tighten the screw. Fine adjustment can be made by using the regulator at the top of the figure 12 on the dial. Place a key onto the square and turn to the left - anti clockwise to make the clock go slow and to the right to go fast. With silk suspensions there is no regulation on the pendulum, the only adjustment is by the square regulator projecting through the dial by the figure 12. Turn fractionally to the left - anti clockwise to go slow and to the right to go fast. If your clock does not have this square by the figure 12 it may have the regulation situated on the back plate in the top left position. This is in the form of a circular knob which is turned fractionally to the left for slow and to the right for fast.

 

OTHER TYPES. There are many other types of French pendulum clocks. For advice on setting etc., contact us by email, or a qualified horologist.

 

FRENCH CLOCKS WITH PLATFORM ESCAPEMENTS.

 

SETTING UP. There is no need for any special setting up as the clocks will go in any position. WINDING. As for French pendulum clocks although some are wound from the back.

 

HAND SETTING. As for pendulum clocks although some are set from a central square at the back of the movement.

 

STRIKE CORRECTION. As for French pendulum clocks.

 

REGULATION. On the platform is an lever which is pushed left or right depending on the letters marked on the platform itself or the plate. Either the letters A - R are used or F - S. R or S direction is to go slow, A or F is to go fast. Advance - Retard, Fast - Slow.

 

 

Long Case

 

SETTING UP.  There are two main types of longcase clocks, 8 day and 30 hour. The simplest way to tell is that 8 day clocks have winding holes through the dial and two weights hung on lines. 30 hour clocks have no winding holes and only one weight hung on rope or chain. For both types start by placing the trunk of the case in the position it is going to occupy. Do not use any packing under the clock at this stage but get somebody else to hold the case throughout the setting up to prevent accidents. With 8 day clocks the movement is usually attached to a board, unravel the lines and place the movement board on top of the trunk side uprights and get your assistant to hold it. With 30 hour clocks the base board is often separate and so the rope or chain and pulley will have to be passed through the centre slot and then put up onto the trunk uprights. Now with the movement still being supported, hang on the pendulum. Look at the drawing, then pass the pendulum up through the trunk door, up the back slot of the board, up through the crutch slot and pass the suspension spring into the slot of the back cock and seat the brass block down into the notch. Now that the pendulum is on, there is less likelihood of the movement falling forward. The next stage is to slide on the hood. Manoeuvre the board backwards or forwards, from side to side, from underneath until the dial lines up perfectly in the hood aperture. Remove the hood again. With 8 day clocks, untangle the lines carefully and deal with one side at a time. The lines should be fully out and not tangled up around the wheels. Hold the line about one foot down from the board and pull it taut. Place the winding key on the square and wind very slowly, about 6 turns, whilst keeping the line taut and watching it feed onto the barrel grooves. Without releasing the tension on the line follow it down to the bottom to ensure there are no loops or kinks, turn over the pulley and place the line in the groove. Then hang on the weight making sure the tension on the line is not released until the weight is in place. Repeat with the other weight. With 30 hour clocks, check that the rope or chain is correctly seated on the sprocket within the movement. Untangle the rest of the rope or chain following down to the bottom. Turn the pulley up the correct way and hang on the weight. At this point no packing has been used and your assistance is still supporting the clock. Packing should be of firm material that will not compress under the weight. First attend to the back to front movement of the case. Push back the case until the pendulum bob is still clear of the back and the weights are clear of the front door. The gap at the back of the clock needs support if the case is to be firm. The ideal thing is a cork from a bottle cut down to the right height to suit the gap and glued to the back of the case. The front of the case can then be tightly packed against this cork to stabilise it. The case can of course be screwed to the wall to safeguard it. Now pack the side to side level until it is upright. For this it is sometimes better to go by eye, especially if you have a wall edge or window frame nearby as these are often not perfectly vertical. Now the case is secure, the pendulum can be swung to check if the clock is in beat. Listen to the "tick", this must be even in order that the clock continues to function. If the beat is uneven, the crutch arm has to be bent. To determine which way to bend it you must first decide which way the pendulum is swinging on the longest gap between ticks. If the longest gap is when the pendulum is swinging towards the right, the crutch arm must be bent towards the left (viewing from the front). If the longest gap is when the pendulum is swinging towards the left, the crutch arm must be bent towards the right. Trial and error will soon have it correct. The suspension block should be in the centre of the crutch fork, adjusted by bending the crutch arm backwards or forwards. The hood can now be replaced and the clock wound and set to time. WINDING. 8 day clocks are wound once a week, usually with a cranked key in a clockwise direction of 14 turns. It is advisable to open the trunk door and watch the weights going up so that you can see how far you have wound. 30 Hour clocks are wound each day by opening the trunk door and pulling on the rope or chain, usually the back right hand side until the weight reaches the top of the case.

 

HAND SETTING. For most longcase clocks where only the hour is sounded, move the minute hand ONLY in a forwards direction pausing at each hour to allow the clock to complete its strike. For minor adjustments in a backwards direction, only move the minute hand between the figures 45 - 1. To move the hand back past the 60 may well damage the movement. For quarter chiming clocks, the clock must be allowed to sound each quarter. For minor adjustments in a backwards direction, only move the minute hand between the figures 7 - 1, 22 - 16, 37 - 31 or 52 - 46 minutes.

 

STRIKE CORRECTION. Most 8 day clocks are rack striking and so the sequence should not differ from the time. However in early clocks of 8 day or month duration the locking plate system was sometimes used which may become out of sequence at some point. To correct these, first remove the hood and look at the left hand side of the movement. On the very back plate or in front or behind the largest wheel, attached to the barrel, there will be a wheel without teeth but with notches cut into its circumference at uneven intervals. Resting on this locking plate circumference will be a lever, which must be raised and released to activate the strike. Continue to release the strike until the number struck coincides with the time. This lever quite often has a projection sticking out from its arbor which is easy to see and get to. For 30 hour clocks most are locking plate striking and will probably need correcting fairly frequently if allowed to run down. The locking plate should be easily found. Use the same method of correction as described above with 8 day clocks.

 

DATE SETTING. Three types of date are in common use. The centre date hand, the hand on a subsidiary dial or the date showing through an aperture. Centre date hands can be moved backwards or forwards manually, except when the clock itself is trying to turn the date over a period of a few hours at night, if the clock is set in the correct 12 hour sequence. Hands on subsidiary dials sometimes change every 24 hours or quite often every 12 hours of half a division. The hand can be moved manually but if any resistance is felt at all it should be left to another time as the clock may be trying to turn itself. Two types of aperture dates are used. For those showing in a segmental aperture, the wheel usually turns through half a division every 12 hours and so at certain times it may not be moveable. The easiest way is to gently push round the dial through the aperture in the direction of the figures, counting up until the correct date is reached. Those dates showing a single figure in a square aperture are turned by revolving the date ring from the back of the dial after removing the hood. They can be moved backwards or forwards except when clock is driving the date itself.

 

REGULATION. The only way of regulating for most longcase clocks is by the pendulum itself. The nut at the bottom of the bob is screwed up to the right (clockwise) to make it go fast and left (anti clockwise) to go slow. It is advisable to hold the bob whilst doing this to prevent the rod being twisted and damaging the suspension spring. It is fairly common that the thread or nut is very worn and slips down, so watch for this happening and if this is so, get the pendulum repaired by a qualified horologist to prevent it happening again. OTHER TYPES. Longcase clocks have many different variations including musical automata and lunarwork etc. For lunar dials showing in the arch the disc can be revolved manually from the back with hood removed. The lunar date has no connection with the actual date. A lunar month consists of 29 1/2 days beginning from the no moon position. For other types, contact the shop the clock was purchased from or a qualified horologist or email us.

French Carriage Clock

 

SETTING UP.  Whenever the clock is moved the escapement continues to run. If the clock strikes on a gong or a bell the tone should be checked. Check the bell of gong is not fouling the case, in any way. To check the bell gently lift up the hammer and release to check the sound. To correct this first turn the bell round into another position in case the central hole is eccentric. Failing this, the hammer arm must be gently bent one way or the other until the sound is correct.

 

WINDING.  Wind the clock once a week in a clockwise direction. If a striking clock wind both sides. Wind until the resistance is obviously too strong to safely continue. Ensure your key is beginning to wear round then replace it as it may damage the clock. Striking clocks must be wound on both sides to avoid damage.

 

HANDSETTING.  When setting the hands use the small end of your double ended winding key. Move the minute hand in a clockwise direction only. If a striking clock move the minute hand forwards slowly to each half hour and allow the clock to complete its striking. For minor adjustments in a backwards direction, the minute hand should only be moved betweeen the figures of 14 -  minute or 44 - 31 minutes. To go back past 60 or 30 divisions may damage the movement.

 

REGULATION.  Both cylinder and lever escapements have a similar method of regulation. If you open the rear door and look near the top of the back plate you will see a small lever protruding. The plate will be marked with a+ or A and a- or R. To advance or speed the clock up move the small lever towards the A or + a tiny amount. To retard or slow the clock down move the lever just a little towards the R or -.

 

CLOCKS WITH PLATFORM ESCAPEMENTS

(these have a little balance wheel spinning back and forth instead of a pendulum).

 

SETTING UP.  There is no need for any special setting up as the clocks will go in any position.

 

REGULATION.  On the platform is a regulator which is pushed left or right depending on the letters A - R are used of F - S or S direction is to go slow, A or F is too fast. Advance - Retard, Fast - Slow.

 

Vienna Regulator

 

SETTING UP.  Hang the case securely on a screw and if possible get an assistant to hold the case. With the shiny side of the pendulum facing you, hook the pendulum carefully onto the top suspension spring. Take the movement on its base platform and unravel the lines. Slide the movement into the bracket and guide the crutch pin into the pendulum's slot. Put in the side bolts loosely and close the door to check the dial is clearing the glass. Open the door and if correct tighten the side bolts. Check the crutch pin is clear of the back of the case and that the pendulum is not laying against the crutch arm. With a striking clock lift the hammer and release to check that it strikes the gong properly and sounds clear. If the sound id flat, bend it closer. Also check the hammer does not foul the back of the case or the pendulum.

Guide one of the lines down straightening any twists or kinks keeping it taut all the time. If the line is slightly long, hold the pulley and wind sufficiently to raise the pulley away from the bottom of the case before hooking the weight onto it.

With the clock veritcal, check that the back of the pendulum clears the case and weights are not touching glass. If either are touching then the case will have to be packed out at the top or the bottom to correct. Usually there are steady plates at the bottom of the case with screws which not only can be used for steadying but also for backward and forwards adjustment.

Now listen to the "tick". This must sound even in order that the clock functions correctly. If it is not, there is an adjustment for putting in beat on the side of the crutch. One or two knurled nuts are on the edges of the crutch which can be turned one way or the other to improve the tick until it is exact. Try turning a couple of times and decide if you are going the right or wrong direction by listening to see if the tick has been improved or made worse.

 

WINDING.  Usually once a week in a clockwise direction. Look carefully at the top of the line to make sure the pulley does not come off by overriding one of the knots fastening the line to the hook on the base of the platform. Wind both sides on a striking clock.

 

HAND SETTING.  The minute hand should be moved forwards allowing the clock to complete its striking in each half hour and hour. For minor adjustments in a backwards direction move the minute hand only, between the figures IIII-I or X-VI if a striking clock.

 

REGULATION.  This is done by the nut on the bottom of the pendulum. Often at the pendulum bob is a collar with a V notch in it, make sure the bob is always sitting correctly in the notch. If there are two nuts under this, then one is used to tighten the bottom nut against it. Turn the nut to the right (clockwise) to go faster and to the left (anti clockwise) to go slower. The shorter a pendulum is the faster the clock goes. To slow a clock down, make the pendulum longer by adjusting the 'rating' nut below the pendulum.

 

English Dial Clock

 

These fine clocks are mainly simple time pieces but sometimes are striking hours. Pendulums should always be removed or secured for moving the clock to prevent damage. Ensure your key is a snug fit and push right on to avoid damage to the dial.

 

SETTING UP.  The pendulums of these clocks take two forms, either detatchable or not, depending on what type of escapement is used. Anchor and dead-beat escapements have detatchable pendulums. Verge escapements found on very early clocks do not normally have detatchable pendulums.

To remove the detatchable pendulum there are a few steps. Lift up the pendulum and top suspension spring block and bring back clear of the back cock and crutch pin. To replace the pendulum reverse this procedure but ensure the brass suspension block pin sits into the notch o the top of the back cock and also that the crutch oin is inside the slot of the pendulum rod. For wall clocks put the pendulum on after the clock is hanging on the wall.

For attatched pendulums it is simply moved to one side and hooked up into the side hook or unhooked to release. It is common that these hooks are missing in which case the pendulum should be padded inside the case to stop it moving. Do not attempt to remove the pendulum in any way.

After hanging or releasing the pendulum it is neccessary to check the "tick". This must be even in order that the clock continues to function. Swing the pendulum gently and listen - if you are not sure whether it is even or not, try raising one side of the case and listen to see what that sounds like. On a wall clock move it out of vertical. If the "tick" is uneven the crutch arm has to be bent, unless it has an adjustable crutch which is sometimes used in late wall clocks.

First decide which way the crutch arm is to be bent by making the "tick" correct by lifting up one side of the case, or with a wall clock pivoting on the hanging screw. If the clock is raised up on the right (looking from the front) bend the crutch slightly to the left (looking from the back). The pendulum rod itself is bent in the case of fixed pendulums with verge escapement. If the clock is raised up on the left, bend the crutch to the side that is raised. Then try the reaction and decide if the bend was too much, not sufficient or now correct. With english wall clocks it may be necessary to unpeg the surround from the hanging box to enable sufficient access to the crutch the arm need not be bent as the same effect is acheived by rotating the knurled brass nut carrying the crutch pin one way or the other.

Wall clocks, after they are set in beat in the vertical position, often have securing plates which can be screwed through to stop the clock moving when winding. A double sided sticky pad behind the bottom of the case will help keep the clock in position.

 

WINDING.  Wind the clock once a week in a clockwise direction. (American clocks often wind the other way). If the clock is a striking clock wind both sides. One spring drives the strike and the other spring drives the hands. Wind until the key comes to a definite stop which after seven days will be 28 half turns on each square or more if the clock has run slightly longer. This applies only to fusee clocks which vast majority of English clocks are. For quarter chiming clocks all three squares will require winding with the extreme right hand one driving the chime. Ensure your key fits the square properly, it must fit onto the square enough and have little if any slack. If the key is beginning to wear round then replace it as it may damage the clock squares. Striking clocks must be wound on both sides even if the clock is not wanted to strike, failure to wind the striking spring may stop the clock and can cause damage. Some bracket clocks are fitted with strike/silent devices which can be used.

 

HAND SETTING.  To set the hands to time always move the minute hand ONLY. On a timepiece clock (one which does not strike or chime) the minute hand can be moved forwards or backwards to reach the correct time. On striking clocks which sound the hours only, the minute hand can be moved forwards slowly to each hour allowing the clock to complete its striking each time before moving on.

 

Atmos Clock

 

LOCKING THE PENDULUM.  You will recieve the clock with the pendulum locked, i.e. the locking lever under the base at the front of the clock will be to the right. It should remain locked until you are ready to set the clock in its permanent place. Moving the clock without locking the pendulum can cause serious damage to the movement. Moving the lever to the right locks the pendulum, moving the lever to the left unlocks the pendulum. The proper time to lock the pendulum is when it reaches an extreme swing, i.e. it stops moving. Then move the lever to the right straight away. Do not lock the clock whilst the pendulum is in mid-rotation.

 

LEVELLING THE CLOCK.  Atmos clocks are designed to work best when placed on a stable, level surface that does not suffer any jarring. Use the spirit level at the front of the base plate to level the clock. Rotate the two levelling screws up or down until the bubble is completely centred. These screws are located inside the case at the front of the base of the clock. There is a third foot at the rear of the clock but this is fixed. The screws raise or lower the base and if they appear tight when lifting the clock, just raise the base slightly with one hand. If the clock will not level within the maximum adjustment of the screws, use a shim under the appropriate foot.

 

SETTING THE TIME.  The front of the door of the clock is removed by pushing down on a gold knob on the top of the glass door, moving it forwards a little to clear the casing and then lifting the whole glass door out of the case. This must be done very carefully because it is easy to catch the sides or drop the glass and do some damage. Also be careful when replacing the glass door because it is all too easy to chip the bottom corners if it is not put back squarely. Set the clock to the correct time by using the minute hand only. It is best practice to move it in a clockwise direction and only when the pendulum is at, or about to reach, an extreme in its swing, or is locked. Do not touch the hour hand or move the minute hand backwards on an Atmos clock. When the summer comes in the Spring to change the clocks for British Summer Time, just stop the clock with the lever, when the pendulum stops moving, and move the minute hand forward by an hour. In the Autumn it is easiest to just stop the clock and restart it after an hour has passed.

 

STARTING THE CLOCK.  Once the clock has been levelled and the hands set, the door can be put back in and the locking lever moved to the left. The pendulum should start to rotate and then keep oscillating backwards and forwards. It is best to set the hands a minute or two in advance before the door is put back in so that the lever can be released at the correct time. If the clock was stopped abruptly or accidentally jarred, do not spin the pendulum round by hand as this can damage the suspension spring and the escapement mechanism. To start the clock again, gently move the pendulum in either direction by about half of a complete rotation (180°) using something like the eraser on the end of a pencil.

 

TIMING ADJUSTMENTS.  The Atmos clock is very sensitive and can react significantly to very minor adjustments. If the clock is running too fast or too slow, use the adjustment lever on the top of the frame inside the case. Moving th lever to the left towards the S/R (Slow/Retard) mark will slow down the clock, moving the lever to the right towards the F/A (Fast/Advance) mark will speed up the clock. Each graduation mark represents about 10 seconds per day and it is best to move the adjustment lever a little at the time and wait several days or a week for the clock to adjust.

 

CLEANING AND GENERAL CARE FOR YOUR CLOCK.  Keep the clock out of direct sunlight and avoid exposure to excessive hot or cold temperatures. The gold plating and lacquer on the case of the clock is very thin. Never use household cleaners or abrasives of any kind. Clean fingerprints and dust from the case with a very dilute, mild detergent and a soft, non abrasive cloth.

 

400 day/Anniversary Clock

 

The 400 day or Anniversary clock is a precision instrument capable of very accurate timekeeping - if properly adjusted and looked after. Almost all other spring wound clocks require small adjustments to the hands each time they are wound up, which is usually every day or every week. Your 400 day clock will rum for a whole year with one winding and it should be anticipated that small adjustments to the hands will be required on occasions, though hopefully not too often!

 

THE PENDULUM.  You will recieve the clock with the pendulum locked to the frame or removed from its suspension attatchment. It should remain locked or unattatched until you are ready to set the clock in its permanent place. On older clocks with detatchable pendulums, the hook at the top of the pendulum should be attatched to the brass block at the bottom of the suspension wire. The hook normally goes over the pins projecting from the sides of the block. If a cover for the suspension wire is fitted it may have to be raised to gain access to the block. The bottom block may be loosely attatched to the movement plate to prevent damage in transit. More modern clocks usually have a lever to lock the pendulum to the frame. Gently move the lever to release. The suspension wire that attatches the pendulum to the movement is not much thicker than a human hair and is easily damaged or broken. Take great care when attatching the pendulum, and adjusting the timekeeping. Moving the clock without locking or removing the pendulum can cause expensive damage. Never spin the pendulum round to 'wind' the clock or see the effect - it will make the suspension wire useless.

 

STARTING THE CLOCK.  Once the pendulum is attatched and free to rotate, gently push it round for about one complete turn from the stationary position and let go. It will rotate backwards and forwards faster than normal but eventually settle down to about ½ to ¾ of a turn in each direction. Rotating the pendulum more than a complete turn may have the effect of permanently twisting the wire into a corkscrew shape and making it ineffective.

 

LEVELLING THE CLOCK.  Anniversary clocks are designed to work best when placed on a stable, level surface that does not suffer any jarring or vibration. A shelf attatched to a wall would be better than a table. A knock may stop the clock. If the clock has them, rotate the levelling screws up or down until the pendulum is centred.

 

TIMING ADJUSTMENTS.  It is quite likely that the timekeeping will need adjustment after the clock is set up. Minor knocks during transit and the packaging will almost certainly have affected the position of the weights on the pendulum. Timekeeping is carried out on these clocks by moving the balls or pendulum wieghts in or out. As weights are moved outwards, the clock will slow down. As the weights are moved inwards, the clock will speed up. On clocks with balls there will be a serrated adjusting disk just above the balls. This will usually be marked with 'F - S' or 'A - R' (or just a '+' or '-'), standing for 'faster - slower' or 'advacne - retard'. Moving the disc in the direction of the 'F' or 'A' or '+' will make the clock run faster and the opposite in the other direction. On clocks with a disc pendulum, the weights will be similarly marked. They can be adjusted using a key on the end of the rod that connects them. Turning the key in one direction moves both weights in or out simultaneously. Do not adjust the pendulum more than once a day to give the timekeeping a chance to settle down. As accurate timekeeping is approached very small adjustments will be required. It is better to start with the clock running too fast. In this way al the loose parts of the pendulum are seated and there is no slack. The clock may slow down as the mainspring unwinds and for this reason it is a good idea to wind the clock every 3 or 4 months rather than wait until the end of the year. It is also best not to fully wind the mainspring so that the key becomes solid. Leave a click or two so that the spring is not completely locked.

 

SETTING THE TIME.  Set the clock to the correct time by using the minute hand only, when the pendulum is at an extreme in its swing, or is locked. Do not touch the hour hand.

 

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